Full Tang Tempered

Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade


Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade
Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade
Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade
Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade
Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade
Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade
Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade
Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade
Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade
Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade
Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade
Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade

Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade  Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade
A tachi was a type of traditionally made Japanese sword (nihonto) worn by the samurai class of feudal Japan. The tachi style of swords preceded the development of the katana-the first use of the word katana to indicate a blade different from tachi appears toward the end of the twelfth century. An authentic tachi that was manufactured in the correct time period averaged 70-80 centimeters (27 9/16 - 31 1/2 inches) in cutting edge length (nagasa) and compared to a katana was generally lighter in weight in proportion to its length, had a greater taper from hilt to point, was more curved with a smaller point area.

Unlike the traditional manner of wearing the katana, the tachi was worn hung from the belt with the cutting-edge down, and was most effective when used by cavalry. Deviations from the average length of tachi have the prefixes ko- for "short" and - for "great, large" attached. For instance, tachi that were sht and closer in size to a wakizashi were called kodachi.

The longest tachi (considered a 15th-century dachi) in existence is more than 3.7 metres (12 ft) in total length with a 2.2 metres (7 ft 3 in) blade, but believed to be ceremonial. For a sword to be worn in "tachi style" it needed to be mounted in a tachi koshirae. The tachi koshirae had two hangers (ashi) which allowed the sword to be worn in a horizontal position with the cutting edge down.

103 cm / 40.6 inch. 70 cm / 27.6 inch. 26 cm / 10.24 inch. 3.2 cm / 1.26. 0.7 cm / 0.28. Fully hand folded forged by 15 times (32786 layers), hand polished, clay hardened, water quenching. Folded 1095 carbon steel + iron core. Real hamon, clay hardened line. Hard wood core, hineri maki. TSUBA(HAND GUARD): gold-plated brass. Specialized tachi saya with high quality lion pattern fittings, black synthetic silk sageo. Sword display holder(stand) is not included. Manual measurement error range 1-2 cm.

Is constructed of two different kinds of steel, the core steel and the outer steel, where the core steel is wrapped with the outer steel. As to the tempering, the outer steel is more sensitive than the core steel. In this case the outer steel is harder than the core steel. Before being quenched, a special clay mixture can be applied onto the blade to harden the edge and obtain different hardness on the blade.

The clay mixture was a special recipe and considered a crucial trade secret, guarded protectively by sword making masters. It would contain such things as feathers, powdered bones, grass, etc. And would be applied to the edge of the blade before being quenched. During quenching, a chemical reaction between the clay mixture and the hot steel occurs during the sudden temperature drop and carbon is fed into the blade in. High amounts, creating an extremely tough edge.

A clay hardened blade can only be quenched in water, thus increasing the defect rate even more. Another way for clay tempering is to apply clay along the blade but let edge exposed. Thus, while quenching the blade into water, the uncovered edge will cool down suddenly, but the rest of blade will cool down slowly. Such differential temperature change results in the different hardness of the blade. So the edge is tough enough to cut, where the back of blade is soft /flexible enough to absorb the impact during cutting.

Such quenching process usually will leave beautiful wavy tempered line on the blade, as known as "hamon" in Japanese swords term. This means that the carbon steel is folded by 15 times to produce 32768 layers.

The higher quantity of layers provides more unique and mystical hada patterns, which defines and displays the craftsman's experience and knowledge of traditional metallurgy passed down from generation to generation. Only the utmost skilled bladesmiths (Toushyo) and polishers (Togi-shi) can bring out the beauty and life from the Shinsakuto live blade. During the forging process, all of the slags and impurities of the steel are burned off and folded forged to an uncompromised strength with an sharp cutting edge. The final carbon content is 1% and the hardness is an impressive HRC 55°on the Rockwell Scale.

This high quality blade can easily cut through tatami straw mats or bamboo for Tameshigiri or Batto-do use. It is free for engraving English words and Chinese. HOW TO DISASSEMBLE A JAPANESE SWORD? Swords can be shaped by a variety of metalworking techniques. The primary techniques are forging and stock removal.

Forging uses heat to bring the material to a malleable state. The material is then hammered to shape, typically using hammer and anvil together with specialized set and fuller tools depending on the particular technique. Stock removal shapes the sword from prepared stock that is larger in all dimensions than the finished sword by filing, grinding and cutting.

After the blade has been shaped, the sword would be quenched. We quench our swords in either water or oil. Water quenching produces a tougher edge which can also be hardened further more using clay. Blades quenched in oil are still considerably hardened and do have superior flexibility compared to a water quenched blade.

The more rapidly a blade cools down, the harder it becomes. Thus, when a hot blade enters the water, the water also gains heat and the blade will cool more gradually.

Therefore, the first part of the blade that enters the water will be the hardest. Therefore, the technique of quenching was also very important. If a blade has any flaws from forging (air bubbles, ash), it will break immediately during the quenching process. After quenching, the sword will be quite tough and brittle, with little flexibility. To overcome this, the blade would undergo a tempering process.

The blade would be reheated to a certain temperature degree then allowed to cool naturally. The blade would be slightly less tough afterward but have a greater degree of flexibility - the art would be to perfectly balance the blade for toughness, sharpness and flexibility. Finishing encompasses polishing, decorating, and crafting and assembling the hilt, guard and sheath. The swordsmith would be most concerned with the state of the blade itself and possibly decorating the blade and preparing the guards and pommel. Other artisans would likely be involved in the work of fashioning the hilt, sheath and other furniture; and in any fine decoration. When the rough blade is completed, the swordsmith turns the blade over to a polisher, whose job it is to refine the shape of a blade and improve its aesthetic value. The polishing process almost always takes longer than even crafting, and a good polish can greatly improve the beauty of a blade, while a bad one can ruin the best of blades. Early polishers used three types of stone, whereas a modern polisher generally uses seven. On high quality blades, only the back of the blade and the adjacent sides, are polished to a mirror-like surface. To bring out the grain and hamon, the center portion of the blade, and the edge are usually given a matte finish. Microscopic scratches in the surface vary, depending on hardness. Smaller but more numerous scratches in the harder areas reflect light differently from the deeper, longer scratches in the softer areas. The harder metal appears more matte than the softer, and the manner in which it scatters light is less affected by the direction of the lighting. After the blade is finished it is passed on to a mountings-maker for fashioning the hilt, sheath and other mountings.

International Buyers - Please Note. Otherwise an unpaid item dispute will be. Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Ireland, Luxembourg, Malta, Norway, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, U.

We will try our best to offer you a satisfactory solution. Sword, is a well known and authentic hand-forge sword company. We are professional and specialized in hand-forging Japanese samurai swords and Chinese swords (Jian and Dao). We have a full range of Katana, Wakizashi, Tanto sword and other sword's accessories.

Swords from us are all handmade in traditional ways by skilled and experienced swordsmiths. We strives for making the highest quality swords in the past decades which makes us one of the best sword sellers in this field. We devote ourselves to keeping customers satisfied and providing them with the best sword at a reasonable price. The item "Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade" is in sale since Wednesday, May 8, 2019. This item is in the category "Collectibles\Knives, Swords & Blades\Swords & Sabers\Asian\Japanese".

The seller is "yanli22" and is located in LongquanZhejiang. This item can be shipped to North, South, or Latin America, all countries in Europe, all countries in continental Asia, Australia.
  1. Type: Tachi
  2. Handle Material: Cord Wrapped
  3. Tang: Full
  4. Dexterity: Right-Handed
  5. Edge: Single
  6. Handedness: Single-Handed
  7. Authenticity: Original
  8. Country/Region of Manufacture: China

Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade  Full Tang Japanese Samurai Katana Folded Steel Clay Tempered Sharp Blade